Hans Gmoser

Who was Hans Gmoser?

Johann Wolfgang "Hans" Gmoser, CM is a founder of modern mountaineering in Canada. Born in Austria in 1932, he came to Canada in 1951, and since then has been a major driving force behind the growing popularity of climbing, skiing and guiding.

In the 1950s he pioneered new rock climbs, most notably Grillmair Chimneys, Calgary Route - with Franz Dopf leading, and Diretissima on Yamnuska. He made the third ascents of both Mount Alberta and Brussels Peak. He participated in what may have been the first ascent of Alaska's Mount Blackburn in 1958, and led very successful expeditions to Mount Logan in 1959, and to Mount McKinley in 1963. In 1961 he climbed a difficult new route on the south face of Mount Louis. He was described as "a good leader. He always had plans and he did his darndest to make his dreams come true."

Gmoser was a very capable and ambitious mountain guide. For years he travelled throughout North America, presenting his films and devoting vast amounts of energy toward promoting the Canadian mountain experience. In 1963 he was a founding member of the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and was its first technical chairman.